Health
Ball python care: heat, humidity and feeding
Most ball python problems are husbandry problems. Get heat, humidity and hides right and the animal largely takes care of itself for twenty-five years.
By Marcus Vance · Updated 2026-08-05 · 10 min read
Enclosure and gradient
An adult needs a minimum 4 × 2 ft footprint. Provide a warm side of 88–92°F surface temperature on a thermostat-controlled heat source and an ambient cool side of 78–80°F. Every heat source must be on a thermostat; unregulated heat mats cause burns.
Humidity and shedding
Hold 55–65% humidity, raising to about 70% during a shed cycle. Stuck eye caps and patchy sheds are the first sign humidity is too low.
Hides and enrichment
Two identical tight hides, one on each side, so the snake never has to choose between security and correct temperature. Add clutter — branches, leaf litter, cork — to encourage movement.
Feeding
Feed appropriately sized frozen-thawed prey every 7 days for juveniles and every 10–14 days for adults. Seasonal fasting is normal in mature animals if weight holds. Weigh monthly and track it.
When to see a vet
Open-mouth breathing, clicking or wheezing, bubbles at the nostrils, sustained weight loss, or scale rot all warrant an exotics vet promptly.
Frequently asked questions
- Why is my ball python not eating?
- Most commonly incorrect temperatures, insufficient security, a shed cycle, or seasonal fasting in adults. Check the thermostat and hides first, then weigh the animal weekly and see a vet if weight drops.